Nurture nature

Even if I knew that tomorrow the world would go to pieces, I would still plant my apple tree.
— Martin Luther King Jr.
Apple 6.jpg

It’s easy enough to plant a fruit tree; dig a hole and shove it in. Ok, there can and should be more to it than that but it’s worth remembering that trees can be both resilient and powerful and one certainly doesn't need to dig a huge planting hole to end up with a healthy and productive tree.

There's a sackful of advice we can give on planting apple trees and one day we may bombard you with it, but today's kernel is limited to making sure you choose the right rootstock for the space available. Having planted a tree the last thing you want to do is dig it up again or, worse still, chop it down when you discover its roots are growing into your cellar or through your foundations.

Even more important, remember that digging a hole and shoving it in is NOT the end of the affair. As we wrote in an earlier missive (“It is what it is”, 30th September, 2019), a bit of extra effort now will pay back in spades in years to come, so think of it as an investment more likely to secure a decent return than an investment in the South Sea Company, Polly Peck, BCCI, Barings Bank or Northern Rock or any number of other follies. As well as barrow loads of fruit, you'll gain the satisfaction of seeing your tree develop from frail innocence to productive majesty - with no talking back or eye-rolling commentary as things progress - with the added benefit of knowing your tree will gobble up about 1.25 tonnes of carbon, or more, in its 40 - 50 year lifespan.

So, what should you be doing with your newly planted tree?

  • First of all, don’t abandon it. Go and have a look at it and admire the delicate strength of the young buds. You’ll feel better for a moment of peace and reflection. We, as a rule, don’t talk to trees or give them names but please add these as optional extras if you feel so inclined.

  • Check to make sure that the tree is still alive. There are no leaves at the moment to help you make that determination, so gently scrape the surface of the trunk, stem or branch with your thumb- or finger-nail to look for signs of life under the protective bark: green is good.

  • Check to make sure that the stem and any branches haven’t snapped in the wind. Use clean and sharp secateurs to snip off any broken bits, cutting back to a bud. Blunt secateurs leave untidy cuts and increase the risk of infection.

  • Check your tree guards and stakes. You’ve put them there for a reason so make sure they are still all present and correct and are keeping out the rabbits, deer, sheep or cattle, or helping to keep your tree upright in a howling westerly.

  • If you put down a mulch mat, take it away and find another use for it. Mulch mats encourage small furry creatures to establish a mouse house or a vole hole at the very bottom of your tree, where it will be both safe and convenient for them to treat your tree as snack, or starter, or main course … or all three.

We're now five items into a list of eight and these first five items won't have taken you more than a minute. True, it does get a bit more arduous now but this isn't a marathon

  • Mulch mats, no. Mulch, yes. As much as you can (but don't cover up the graft union at the base of the tree). What does mulch do? Without going into detail, a lot. Trust us.

  • If no mulch, then weeding. Through the course of the spring and summer keep the ground around the trunk as free as possible from grass and weeds; a clear 12” radius from the trunk will be fine, more if you’ve the time and energy. If that doesn't sound appealing, then go back to the item above and reconsider. If neither are appealing or feasible then your tree will, in all likelihood, survive but will respond to your lack of care and consideration with a delayed supply of smaller quantities of fruit. This is a symbiotic relationship and you'll get back what you put in. It's your choice.

  • Prune your tree, in winter if it has a pip (apple, pear), in summer if it has a stone (plum, cherry). We prefer to prune free-standing trees in a centre-leader shape, rather than open-centre, but it’s a matter of preference. Whichever form you’re aiming for, use clean, sharp tools and remember that the objective is to provide the limbs of your tree with light and air, freedom for fruit to grow.

That's it, really. It's not a lot, every so often, for 40 to 50 years of pleasure. As Martin Luther King Jr. said, “Even if I knew that tomorrow the world would go to pieces, I would still plant my apple tree.” Since it seems that the world is going to pieces, plant an apple tree … and then look after it.

With that cheery thought, cheerio and thank you for reading this far.

David Lindgren